Trittenheim

Trittenheim is a classic Moselle village of winemakers' houses, narrow lanes and a church at its heart. Its most famous son is Johannes Trithemius (1462–1516), abbot of Sponheim and one of the great scholars of his day, whose writings on secret writing are regarded as early milestones of cryptography.

Village life follows the wine year: pruning in spring, festivals in summer, harvest in autumn – and in winter the loop grows quiet.

A legend surrounds the village's most famous son, Johannes Trithemius: he is said to have summoned the ghost of Mary of Burgundy for her widower, Emperor Maximilian I. There's no proof – but the story shows how uncanny his learning seemed to people at the time.

Because his books on secret writing were full of mysterious incantations, Trithemius was regarded as a magician for centuries.

• The third book of Trithemius's "Steganographia" was long thought to be a book of magic. Only in the 1990s did researchers show that the supposed spirit conjurations hide encrypted texts.
• Seen from the Zummethöhe, Trittenheim sits so deep in the river loop that it looks almost like a peninsula.
• The vineyard names "Apotheke" (pharmacy) and "Altärchen" (little altar) are among the best known in the Middle Moselle.

The vineyards climb steep, south-facing slate slopes around the river loop. The best-known sites are the Trittenheimer Apotheke and Altärchen. Riesling dominates, from dry to lusciously sweet.

Many family estates offer tastings. It's best to book ahead – especially at harvest time in September and October, when everyone is out in the vineyards.

Estate taverns and seasonal wine taverns (Straußwirtschaften) serve simple regional food with the wine: a winemaker's platter of bread, cheese and cold cuts, tarte flambée and, in autumn, onion tart with Federweißer. A speciality of the Trier area is Gräwes, a hearty dish of sauerkraut and mashed potato.

Seasonal wine taverns often open for only a few weeks a year – ask in the village or at your accommodation.

Footpaths lead through the vineyards around Trittenheim with wide views over the loop, and the long-distance Moselsteig trail runs through the region. The classic viewpoint is the Zummethöhe on the Leiwen side.

For cyclists, the Moselle cycle path is ideal: mostly flat, right by the river and well signposted – for example to Neumagen-Dhron and Piesport.

By car, Trittenheim is about 40 minutes from Trier. Without a car, take the train to Trier or Schweich and continue by bus to the Moselle villages.

The best time to visit is May to October. Book early for harvest time and festival weekends. Small wineries don't always take cards, so some cash is handy.